In depth
What it is
In Fano, in the Marche region, two nativity scenes tell the story of the city's soul during the Christmas festivities. The Presepe di San Marco occupies the ancient eighteenth-century cellars of Palazzo Fabbri, in via Mura Sangallo, with a route of approximately 350 square metres that traces the pages of the Bible from Creation to Resurrection. Not far away, in the former Chiesa di San Francesco, the Presepe dei Maestri Carristi stages the Nativity with statues entirely made of papier-mâché by the same craftsmen who every year build the allegorical floats for the Carnevale di Fano, one of the oldest in Italy.
What makes it special
The Presepe di San Marco is a mechanical nativity scene: hundreds of figurines, approximately two hundred of which are animated, move among about forty dioramas distributed along an underground route of approximately 350 square metres. Some figures are unique pieces handmade by a local craftsman. The place itself, a historic cellar transformed into an environment reminiscent of a cave, adds a particular atmosphere. The Presepe dei Maestri Carristi stands out instead for its technique: papier-mâché, a material that has been used in Fano for generations for Carnival floats, here tells the story of the Nativity with life-size statues, renewed every year with new subjects.
Origins and history
The Presepe di San Marco is the work of don Marco Polverari, who in the early 2000s began setting up an increasingly large nativity scene in the cellars of Palazzo Fabbri: in the 2025-2026 edition he celebrated the twenty-fifth anniversary, marked with a commemorative plaque. Over time the installation has grown in spaces and scenes thanks also to visitors' donations, reinvested in expanding the work. The Presepe dei Maestri Carristi instead stems from the Fano carnival tradition: the same craftsmen who build the papier-mâché floats for Carnival put their technique at the service of the Nativity. Neither the date of birth nor the name of the first creators of this second tradition are precisely documented.
What to see
Descending into the cellars of Palazzo Fabbri, one follows a route that interweaves episodes from the Old and New Testament: from the Creation of the world to Noah's Ark, from the birth of Jesus to the first miracles, up to the Resurrection. Among the biblical scenes there are also references to the city, such as a reconstruction of piazza XX Settembre. The figurines, up to about thirty centimetres tall, move and work whilst lights and effects mark out the different settings. In the former Chiesa di San Francesco the Nativity is instead interpreted with life-size papier-mâché statues, hand-painted with the same decorative care as the Carnival floats, in a more intimate but scenographically refined setting.
When and how to visit
The two nativity scenes are part of Fano's Christmas calendar and traditionally remain on display from late November or early December until Epiphany, with the Presepe di San Marco also open on Sundays thereafter until Easter. In the latest edition the Presepe dei Maestri Carristi was inaugurated on 30 November, open by appointment until 24 December and then every day from 25 December to 6 January from 9am to 12pm and from 3pm to 7pm. The Presepe di San Marco opened on 20 December, with entry for groups by appointment until Christmas, then every day from 25 December to 6 January during the same hours and finally only on Sundays until Easter. Entry to both is free, with a welcome donation for the Presepe di San Marco, the proceeds of which are used to expand the work. For information and group bookings a dedicated mobile number is available.
