Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo

It was built by Theodoric, King of the Ostrogoths, at the beginning of the 6th century, next to his palace, as a church for his Arian worship. When Ravenna passed to the Byzantines, the church was handed over to the Catholics, and the mosaics that reminded people too much of the heretic king were covered or changed. The name of Sant'Apollinare only arrived in the 9th century, with the relics brought here from Classe.

The walls of the nave are an illustrated book on three levels. At the top, 26 scenes from the life of Christ: the miracles on one side, the Passion on the other. In the middle, prophets and saints between the windows. At the bottom, the two most famous processions: on the left 22 virgins led by the Three Wise Men, on the right 26 martyrs, all walking towards Christ and the Madonna enthroned.

At the end of the right wall is Theodoric's palace, the Palatium, with white curtains between the columns. Look carefully: on the columns you can still see hands that remained there when the Byzantines erased the figures of the Gothic court and replaced them with curtains.

It is part of the UNESCO monuments of Ravenna and the Curia combined ticket. It is also one of the two ticket offices for the monuments: if you have not booked online, start here.