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Half day Traditions Sea Nature

Sea and salt trades: Cesenatico and Cervia

Working boats and ice stores in Cesenatico, the Salt Museum and the saltpan where salt is still harvested by hand in Cervia.

Half a day exploring coastal trades that have almost disappeared. In Cesenatico you'll find fishermen's boats with painted sails, built by master shipwrights and caulkers, and the wells where ice was stored for the fish. In Cervia, the city of salt, there's the salt workers' museum and the Salina Camillone, the last saltpan where salt is still harvested by hand as it was a hundred years ago.

Salina di Cervia
Photo: Franca Cecchinato56, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
  • Length from Marotta6 h 00 Half day
  • Driving2 h 30 · 192 km there and back
  • Visits and stops3 h 30
  • When to goMid-June to mid-September, when the salt workers are at the Camillone; afternoons are best

The plan from Marotta

  1. Leave Marotta for Cesenatico1 h 00 driving, 87 km
  2. Cesenatico1 h 25 of visits: The Museo della Marineria and the lugsails, The ice stores
  3. Drive on to Cervia centre20 min driving, 11 km
  4. Cervia centre45 min of visits: MUSA, the Salt Museum
  5. Drive on to Salina di Cervia5 min driving, 1 km
  6. Salina di Cervia1 h 20 of visits: The Salina Camillone
  7. Drive back to Marotta1 h 05 driving, 94 km
  8. Back in Marotta

Times are a guide: driving times are worked out without traffic, then come the visits and ten minutes at every stop to park. In summer towards the coast and at rush hour allow extra time.

What you will see

1Cesenatico

The Museo della Marineria and the lugsails 45 min

In the oldest stretch of the port canal, the one designed by Leonardo da Vinci in 1502, Adriatic working boats float at anchor: bragozzi, trabaccoli, lance. They were built by master shipwrights and made watertight by caulkers with oakum and pitch; the sails were painted red and yellow with coloured earth pigments and bore the family symbol, so from shore you could recognise who was coming home. The indoor section tells the story of fishing, the shipyards and sailors' lives.

The sails are hoisted from Easter to autumn; the indoor section has seasonal opening times.

The ice stores 15 min

Before refrigerators, fish was kept fresh with ice collected in winter and stored in large covered wells dug underground, the 'conserve'. This too was a trade: cutting, carrying and packing the ice so it would last until summer. In Piazza delle Conserve one has been reconstructed and you can see what it was like inside.

2Cervia centre

MUSA, the Salt Museum 30 min

In the great Magazzino Torre of 1691, salt was piled up before being loaded onto boats: thousands of tonnes. Today it houses MUSA, which tells the story of the salt workers' labour with wooden tools, photographs and the words of those who did it: the families who each worked their own section of saltpan, the summer harvest, the salt carried on shoulders and in boats to the warehouses.

Seasonal opening times: check before visiting.

3Salina di Cervia

The Salina Camillone 60 min

Before 1959 the Cervia saltpan was divided into about 150 small family-run saltpans; then it was merged into a single large facility and the families' work ended. The Camillone is the only one that remains as it was: volunteers from the Civiltà Salinara, many of them former salt workers, harvest the salt by hand with wooden tools, using the method known as 'alla cervese'. The result is 'sale dolce', low in bitter salts, now a Slow Food Presidium. Around it lie the saltpan basins, with pink flamingos.

Free guided visits in summer (usually mid-June to mid-September, afternoons, on set days); on Tuesdays you can work alongside the salt workers by booking: check the MUSA calendar.

Tips

  • Visits to the Camillone usually start in late afternoon on set days: check the MUSA calendar and choose your day.
  • If you'd like to see rust-printed fabrics too, stop at Gambettola, fifteen minutes from Cesenatico, at the Stamperia Bertozzi.
  • Out of season the saltpan can be visited with guides from the Centro Visite, on foot or by boat, but the salt workers won't be there.

With your own car

Almost every old town has a limited traffic zone (ZTL) with cameras: park outside and walk in. The fine reaches your home, abroad too. ZTL and car parks town by town

This trip with a driver

Romagna Transfer picks you up at your hotel, drops you in front of every stop and brings you back: no parking, no ZTL, and the wine is yours to enjoy.

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Trips written by our editors from the facts of our monument pages and the official sites. Opening days and hours change: the note under every place tells you what to check before you leave. No prices: you find them on the museums' sites.

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