Ferrara of the Este Family and the Comacchio Valleys
The Castello Estense, the Cathedral and Palazzo dei Diamanti in the morning, a boat trip through the Valleys and Comacchio in the afternoon.
Two faces of the Ferrara area in one day. In the morning, Ferrara, the Renaissance city of the Este family, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its water-surrounded castle and the medieval Via delle Volte. After lunch you head towards the sea, to the Comacchio Valleys, by boat among flamingos and fishermen's huts, finishing in Comacchio, the little Venice of canals and the Trepponti.
When to goMarch to October (the boat in the Valleys doesn't run in winter)
The plan from Bologna
Leave Bologna for Ferrara centre55 min driving, 49 km
Ferrara centre2 h 45 of visits: Castello Estense, Cattedrale di San Giorgio, Via delle Volte, Corso Ercole I d'Este and Palazzo dei Diamanti
Lunch in Ferrara1 h 00 of visits: in the centre: cappellacci di zucca, salama da sugo, coppia ferrarese (the local bread).
Drive on to Comacchio Valleys, Stazione Foce50 min driving, 56 km
Comacchio Valleys, Stazione Foce2 h 00 of visits: Boat trip through the Valleys
Drive on to Comacchio centre10 min driving, 4 km
Comacchio centre1 h 50 of visits: Trepponti, Manifattura dei Marinati, Museo Delta Antico, Loggiato dei Cappuccini and Ponte degli Sbirri
Drive back to Bologna1 h 15 driving, 93 km
Back in Bologna
Times are a guide: driving times are worked out without traffic, then come the visits and ten minutes at every stop to park. In summer towards the coast and at rush hour allow extra time.
What you will see
1Ferrara centre
Castello Estense 70 min
Built in 1385 by Niccolò II d'Este after a popular uprising, as a fortress to defend against the city itself: four towers, a water-filled moat and drawbridges. It later became the ducal residence, with kitchens, frescoed apartments and the terrible dungeons where Ugo and Parisina were imprisoned, their story of love and betrayal sung by poets. From the Torre dei Leoni you can see the whole city.
Separate ticket required.
Cattedrale di San Giorgio 15 min
Consecrated in 1135, it has a white and pink marble façade, Romanesque below and Gothic above, with a portal supported by lions. Along the side runs the Loggia dei Merciai, with shops under the arches since the Middle Ages. After the 2012 earthquake it has been undergoing lengthy restoration: the interior may be closed.
Check whether the interior is open to visitors.
Via delle Volte 15 min
One of the best-preserved medieval streets in Europe, almost two kilometres long and crossed by arches and elevated passageways that connected merchants' houses to warehouses on the river. Cobblestones, silence and light filtering through the vaults.
Corso Ercole I d'Este and Palazzo dei Diamanti 25 min
The corso is the axis of Biagio Rossetti's Addizione Erculea, the Renaissance quarter that made Ferrara the first modern city. At the Quattro Angoli crossroads stands the Palazzo dei Diamanti, its façade covered with thousands of marble blocks cut in diamond points that change colour with the light. Today it hosts major exhibitions.
The exterior is always visible; exhibitions inside require tickets.
2Comacchio Valleys, Stazione Foce
Boat trip through the Valleys 110 min
On a guided boat you cross the Comacchio Valleys, brackish lagoons where the water is shallow and the landscape seems suspended. You stop at the casoni, the old houses of the vallanti where they slept and cooked during fishing season, and see the lavorieri, reed traps for eels. Thousands of pink flamingos, herons and egrets live in the valleys.
Seasonal boat service, booking required; may be cancelled on very windy days.
3Comacchio centre
Trepponti 10 min
The symbol of Comacchio, commissioned in 1638 by Cardinal Pallotta and designed by the Ravenna architect Luca Danese: five brick stairways rising to an Istrian stone platform, above the point where the Pallotta canal divides into the town centre canals. More than a bridge, it was a fortified gate for those arriving from the sea; the two guard towers were added later.
Manifattura dei Marinati 30 min
The old factory where eels were marinated, reopened as a working museum. In the Sala dei Fuochi, eels are roasted on spits in front of large fireplaces, then placed in jars with vinegar and salt, just as they were a hundred years ago. You understand why in Comacchio eel is a religion.
Processing can be seen at certain times of year; shop on site.
Museo Delta Antico 35 min
In the old 18th-century Ospedale degli Infermi, it tells the story of the Delta territory from the Etruscans of the city of Spina to the Romans. The most famous piece is the cargo of the Roman ship of Comacchio, found in 1981: ingots, amphorae, tools and personal belongings of the crew, intact for two thousand years.
Separate ticket, check opening days.
Loggiato dei Cappuccini and Ponte degli Sbirri 10 min
A 17th-century portico with more than 140 arches leading to the sanctuary of Santa Maria in Aula Regia; along the way you cross the Ponte degli Sbirri, near the old prisons. It's the most photogenic walk along the canals.
Tips
The boat in the Valleys departs at fixed times, only in the warmer months: book before you set off.
The Castello Estense and Palazzo dei Diamanti have separate tickets.
The same trip from other towns
How long it takes from each town, the drive back included. Tap a town to see the plan from there.
Almost every old town has a limited traffic zone (ZTL) with cameras: park outside and walk in. The fine reaches your home, abroad too. ZTL and car parks town by town
This trip with a driver
Romagna Transfer picks you up at your hotel, drops you in front of every stop and brings you back: no parking, no ZTL, and the wine is yours to enjoy.
Trips written by our editors from the facts of our monument pages and the official sites. Opening days and hours change: the note under every place tells you what to check before you leave. No prices: you find them on the museums' sites.
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