Arezzo and Cortona: Piero della Francesca and the Etruscan hill town
The Legend of the True Cross and Piazza Grande in Arezzo in the morning, Cortona on the hill above the Val di Chiana in the afternoon.
Two towns in eastern Tuscany. In the morning Arezzo, the city of Piero della Francesca, Giorgio Vasari and Petrarch: in the church of San Francesco you'll find one of the most famous fresco cycles of the Renaissance, then the Pieve and Piazza Grande, on a slope, where the Giostra is held. After lunch Cortona, an Etruscan town on a hill, with steep streets, museums and views over the Val di Chiana and Lake Trasimeno.
When to goAll year round (in June and September Arezzo hosts the Giostra del Saracino)
Long half day: leave early or skip one visit.
The plan from Comacchio
Leave Comacchio for Arezzo2 h 45 driving, 195 km
Arezzo2 h 05 of visits: San Francesco and the Legend of the True Cross, The Pieve and Piazza Grande, The Cathedral and Piero's Magdalene
Lunch in Arezzo1 h 00 of visits: in the centre: pici, pappardelle alla lepre, Chianina steak, crostini toscani, wines from the Val di Chiana.
Drive on to Cortona50 min driving, 31 km
Cortona1 h 55 of visits: Piazza della Repubblica and the Etruscan Museum, The Diocesan Museum and the view over the Val di Chiana
Drive back to Comacchio3 h 00 driving, 206 km
Back in Comacchio
Times are a guide: driving times are worked out without traffic, then come the visits and ten minutes at every stop to park. In summer towards the coast and at rush hour allow extra time.
What you will see
1Arezzo
San Francesco and the Legend of the True Cross 40 min
In the main chapel of the church of San Francesco, Piero della Francesca painted, between about 1452 and 1466, the Legend of the True Cross: the story of the wood of Christ's cross, from the tree planted on Adam's tomb to the Emperor Heraclius. The figures are calm and solemn, the light clear, the perspectives perfect: it's one of the masterpieces of fifteenth-century painting.
Timed ticket, for small groups in turns: best to book ahead.
The Pieve and Piazza Grande 30 min
The Pieve di Santa Maria, Romanesque, has a façade with three tiers of loggias and a bell tower called 'delle cento buche' (of the hundred holes), for its mullioned windows. Behind it is Piazza Grande, on a slope, enclosed by the Logge del Vasari, from 1573. Here twice a year the Giostra del Saracino is held, and scenes from the film La vita è bella were shot here.
Free.
The Cathedral and Piero's Magdalene 20 min
At the top of the hill is the Gothic cathedral, with stained glass windows by Guillaume de Marcillat. Near the sacristy door there's a small fresco by Piero della Francesca, the Magdalene, not to be missed. Next to it is the Prato park, with views over the hills.
Free.
2Cortona
Piazza della Repubblica and the Etruscan Museum 50 min
Cortona was one of the great Etruscan cities and preserves sections of the walls from that time. In Palazzo Casali is the MAEC, the museum of the Etruscan Academy and the city, with the famous Etruscan bronze chandelier, decorated with sea monsters, satyrs and the head of the Gorgon. Outside is Piazza della Repubblica, with the steps of the Palazzo Comunale, where everyone sits to watch people go by.
The square is free; the museum charges admission.
The Diocesan Museum and the view over the Val di Chiana 30 min
In the small square in front of the cathedral is the Museo Diocesano, with the Annunciation by Fra Angelico, one of his finest works, and paintings by Luca Signorelli, who was born in Cortona. From the square the view opens out over the Val di Chiana as far as Lake Trasimeno. Cortona became famous worldwide with the book and film Under the Tuscan Sun.
Admission charge. Check opening days.
Tips
The visit to Piero della Francesca's frescoes must be booked with a time slot: book it between 10 and 11.
On the first Sunday of the month, and the Saturday before, Piazza Grande and the surrounding streets fill up with the Fiera Antiquaria, one of the largest antiques fairs in Italy.
Cortona is all uphill: if you don't walk much, it's best to stay in the lower part and around the square.
The same trip from other towns
How long it takes from each town, the drive back included. Tap a town to see the plan from there.
Almost every old town has a limited traffic zone (ZTL) with cameras: park outside and walk in. The fine reaches your home, abroad too. ZTL and car parks town by town
This trip with a driver
Romagna Transfer picks you up at your hotel, drops you in front of every stop and brings you back: no parking, no ZTL, and the wine is yours to enjoy.
Trips written by our editors from the facts of our monument pages and the official sites. Opening days and hours change: the note under every place tells you what to check before you leave. No prices: you find them on the museums' sites.
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