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Full day Castles History Nature Views

The lands of Matilda: Canossa, Rossena and the Pietra di Bismantova

The castle where the emperor begged the pope's forgiveness, the red fortress of Rossena, then the mountain mentioned by Dante.

In the Apennines above Reggio Emilia lie the lands of Matilda of Canossa, the countess who ruled half of northern Italy in the Middle Ages. Spend the morning at the castle of Canossa, where in 1077 Emperor Henry IV waited three days in the snow for the pope's forgiveness, and at the nearby fortress of Rossena. After lunch, visit the Pietra di Bismantova, the ship-shaped mountain that Dante places in Purgatory, with a walk up to the summit.

Pietra di Bismantova, Castelnovo ne' Monti
Photo: Paolo Picciati, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
  • Length from Rimini11 h 15 Full day
  • Driving6 h 35 · 481 km there and back
  • Visits and stops3 h 40
  • When to goApril to October (in winter the castles open infrequently and the climb to the Pietra may be icy)

The plan from Rimini

  1. Leave Rimini for The castle of Canossa2 h 35 driving, 212 km
  2. The castle of Canossa1 h 05 of visits: The ruins of the castle of Canossa and the museum
  3. Drive on to The castle of Rossena10 min driving, 4 km
  4. The castle of Rossena1 h 00 of visits: The fortress of Rossena
  5. Lunch in Castelnovo ne' Monti1 h 00 of visits: in the Reggio Apennines: erbazzone, cappelletti in brodo, tortelli verdi, mountain Parmigiano Reggiano.
  6. Drive on to The Pietra di Bismantova50 min driving, 32 km
  7. The Pietra di Bismantova1 h 35 of visits: The Pietra and the climb to the summit
  8. Drive back to Rimini3 h 00 driving, 233 km
  9. Back in Rimini

Times are a guide: driving times are worked out without traffic, then come the visits and ten minutes at every stop to park. In summer towards the coast and at rush hour allow extra time.

What you will see

1The castle of Canossa

The ruins of the castle of Canossa and the museum 40 min

Of Matilda's castle, only ruins remain, perched on a crag of white rock. Here, in January 1077, the excommunicated Emperor Henry IV waited for three days outside the gate, barefoot in the snow, for Pope Gregory VII to forgive him; Matilda acted as mediator. Ever since, 'going to Canossa' has meant humbling oneself to ask for forgiveness. The small museum tells the story of the castle with finds from the excavations.

Admission charge. Check opening days.

2The castle of Rossena

The fortress of Rossena 40 min

A few kilometres from Canossa, on a spur of red rock, stands the best-preserved castle in Matilda's lands, which formed part of her defences. Its walls, keep and halls are still intact. Opposite, on another hill, stands the small Torre di Rossenella, which served as a lookout. From the top you can see the calanchi and hills stretching to the plain.

Guided tours with admission charge, on certain days: check times.

3The Pietra di Bismantova

The Pietra and the climb to the summit 75 min

It's an enormous block of sandstone with sheer walls and a flat top, visible from afar and resembling a ship amid the mountains. Dante mentions it in the fourth canto of Purgatorio, to describe a difficult climb. At its foot stands a small hermitage with a little church; from there a path climbs in about 40 minutes to the summit, a plateau of meadows with views across the whole Apennines and, on clear days, as far as the Alps.

Free access. The path is steep in places: wear hiking boots; those who don't climb can take a walk at the foot of the crag.

Tips

  • The castles of Canossa and Rossena open mainly at weekends and in fine weather: check before you set off.
  • On the route you'll also find Quattro Castella, with the hills of Matilda's castles: at the end of May it holds the Corteo Storico Matildico.
  • If you prefer the city, you could spend the morning in Reggio Emilia and visit the Sala del Tricolore, where the Italian flag was born in 1797.

With your own car

Almost every old town has a limited traffic zone (ZTL) with cameras: park outside and walk in. The fine reaches your home, abroad too. ZTL and car parks town by town

This trip with a driver

Romagna Transfer picks you up at your hotel, drops you in front of every stop and brings you back: no parking, no ZTL, and the wine is yours to enjoy.

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Trips written by our editors from the facts of our monument pages and the official sites. Opening days and hours change: the note under every place tells you what to check before you leave. No prices: you find them on the museums' sites.

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