Sanctuary and Portico of San Luca

On the Colle della Guardia, at about 300 metres above sea level, the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca can be seen from across the plain: for Bolognese returning home, it's the sign that they've arrived. It houses a Byzantine icon of the Madonna and Child which legend attributes to the evangelist Luke, brought here, the story goes, by a pilgrim who arrived from Constantinople in the 12th century.

Since 1433, every year during Ascension week, the icon descends in procession to the cathedral in the city and then returns. To protect pilgrims from the rain, the city built a continuous portico between 1674 and 1721: it starts at Porta Saragozza, crosses over the road with the Arco del Meloncello and climbs for almost four kilometres, 3,796 metres with 666 arches.

The church you see today dates from the 18th century, designed by Carlo Francesco Dotti, the same architect as the Arco del Meloncello: an elliptical plan beneath a great dome. For some years now you've been able to climb to the panoramic terrace at the base of the dome, at about 42 metres, with views over the hills and the city.

In 2021 the Portico di San Luca joined the other porticoes of Bologna on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Walking up is a small ritual for the Bolognese: allow about an hour from the centre, with the final stretch steeply uphill. If you don't want to walk, you can arrive by car or on the tourist train.