Comacchio and the Valli, the little Venice of the Delta
A boat trip through the Valli, the Trepponti, the Manifattura dei Marinati and the Museo Delta Antico.
Comacchio is a town built on water, with canals and bridges like Venice, in the middle of the largest lagoon in the Po Delta. Morning by boat among the fishermen's casoni and flamingos, then the historic centre and the story of the eel, the fish that has sustained this town for centuries.
When to goMarch to October for the boat; the centre all year round
Long half day: leave early or skip one visit.
The plan from Imola
Leave Imola for Valli di Comacchio, Stazione Foce1 h 15 driving, 66 km
Valli di Comacchio, Stazione Foce2 h 00 of visits: Boat trip through the Valli
Drive on to Comacchio centre10 min driving, 4 km
Comacchio centre1 h 50 of visits: Trepponti, Manifattura dei Marinati, Museo Delta Antico, Loggiato dei Cappuccini and Ponte degli Sbirri
Drive back to Imola1 h 10 driving, 77 km
Back in Imola
Times are a guide: driving times are worked out without traffic, then come the visits and ten minutes at every stop to park. In summer towards the coast and at rush hour allow extra time.
What you will see
1Valli di Comacchio, Stazione Foce
Boat trip through the Valli 110 min
On a guided boat you cross the Valli di Comacchio, brackish lagoons where the water is shallow and the landscape seems suspended. You stop at the casoni, the old houses of the vallanti where they slept and cooked during fishing, and see the lavorieri, the reed traps for eels. Thousands of pink flamingos, herons and egrets live in the valley.
Seasonal boat, booking required; may be cancelled on very windy days.
2Comacchio centre
Trepponti 10 min
The symbol of Comacchio, commissioned in 1638 by Cardinal Pallotta and designed by the Ravenna architect Luca Danese: five brick staircases rising to a platform in Istrian stone, above the point where the Pallotta canal divides into the town centre canals. More than a bridge, it was a fortified gate for those arriving from the sea; the two guard towers were added later.
Manifattura dei Marinati 30 min
The old factory where eels were marinated, reopened as a working museum. In the Sala dei Fuochi the eels are roasted on spits in front of large fireplaces, then put in jars with vinegar and salt, just as they were a hundred years ago. You understand why in Comacchio the eel is a religion.
Processing can be seen at certain times of year; shop on site.
Museo Delta Antico 35 min
In the old eighteenth-century Ospedale degli Infermi, it tells the story of the Delta territory from the Etruscans of the city of Spina to the Romans. The most famous piece is the cargo of the Roman ship of Comacchio, found in 1981: ingots, amphorae, tools and personal belongings of the crew, intact for two thousand years.
Separate ticket, check opening days.
Loggiato dei Cappuccini and Ponte degli Sbirri 10 min
A seventeenth-century portico with more than 140 arches leading to the sanctuary of Santa Maria in Aula Regia; along the way you cross the Ponte degli Sbirri, near the old prisons. It is the most photogenic walk along the canals.
Tips
The Romea (SS309) from Ravenna is busy with lorries: leave with time to spare and return before the evening rush from the Lidi in summer.
For those who prefer the afternoon: boat at sunset, then fish dinner in Comacchio (but it becomes longer than half a day).
The same trip from other towns
How long it takes from each town, the drive back included. Tap a town to see the plan from there.
Almost every old town has a limited traffic zone (ZTL) with cameras: park outside and walk in. The fine reaches your home, abroad too. ZTL and car parks town by town
This trip with a driver
Romagna Transfer picks you up at your hotel, drops you in front of every stop and brings you back: no parking, no ZTL, and the wine is yours to enjoy.
Trips written by our editors from the facts of our monument pages and the official sites. Opening days and hours change: the note under every place tells you what to check before you leave. No prices: you find them on the museums' sites.